Sunday, October 12, 2008

Bali to Yogyakarta

On the (public transport) from Bali to Java we got to practise our bartering skills heaps, since we had to jump from Bemo to Bus to Ferry to Bemo to Bus to Rickshaw. All that within 12 hours. The Busride from Denpasar to the most western corner of Bali, Gilimanuk, was simply magnificent. The landscape let us easily forget our sore bums. Once you make it out of the suburban area of Denpasar into rural Bali pretty much everything is breathtaking. Lush palmtree forests, ricepaddies as far as you can see, beautiful beaches with nice surf, bamboo villages snuggled into green valleys and of course not to forget balinese people with ricepaddy hats.

The ferry took us safely to Banyuwangi on the javan(ese?) side, where it took us no less then two hours to find out that the bus we want is not leaving from the port. This evening I got real pissed off with a guy who somehow wanted to help us and somehow tried to sell us a 1 million rupiah trip around. I find this quite hard sometimes, that people seem to be nice and helpful (e.g. want to give you information or show you the way) and once in a sudden they expect payment. I suppose I have to be open for the good things and just learn how to recognise what this might be.


A quick time warp, because it fits so nicely. Today we had the opposite thing happening. A real nice person - Dwi, how we were gonna find out later - approached us and gave us brilliant advice about Yogya and the surrounds and just wanted to communicate and practice his english. I probably just have to oversee the people who see us as potential coin and appreciate those, like Dwi, who make our experience really special.


Once we got on the bumpy ride to Probbolingo from where we wanted to catch a ride to Gunung Bromo, one of Indonesia's active volcanos, it was pitchblack and we missed the change of landscape. We checked into a hotel, that looked like it could've been somewhere in Pakistan and promptly got offered two seperate rooms. It's better to be married in this country if you want a room together.

Indonesia, the biggest Muslim country in the world, seems to be quite liberal to me. There are girls with or without headscarfs (they have those in all sorts of colours and styles - nearly wants to make you wear one yourself) and men with or without those caps or the traditional dress. I don't think I would get into trouble for wearing a singlet or so...

On the Bemo into the Mountains to see Mt. Bromo, we got put onto the school bus packed with giggling 12 year old girls, who were somewhat curious and also sooo timid. They could speak english quite well I think, but they were just too timid to try it out.

When I say packed, I mean packed, people sitting on the roof and holding on to the sides of the minibus. -Dorli



Bromo itself is an amazing place. I mean it's an active volcano, and if you haven't been to an active volcano, get yourself a breathing apparatus and go! The great thing about this particular volcano was the lack of rules or regulations. Perhaps the indonesian govt. didn't get around to implementing the planning procedures. He he. You can actually walk around the top of the crater and look down into the smoking crevace. Some real brave/ idiotic soul had even walked right into the crater and made a sign of his name from rocks- right from where the steam and ash rise out!
We traveled the return route to Probalingo, then onward to Yogykarta .

The drive down was spectacular, steep mountian side, which has all been tilled for agriculture. Some of it was so steep, but it seemed like any arable soil that wasn't vertical was tilled and planted on. They grow these exotic things over here. Soy beans, mango's, papaya, bananas, coconuts, pineapple- plus onions, garlic, corn, and all the stuff we are used to outside the tropics. The soil really looks dry, and not all that fertile, but it must be all that volcanic ash or something.

It's a long way to Yogykarta, a long long way to go. Nine hours in fact. Our driver wanted to get there quicker though, with scant regard for his safety or ours. You are supposed to drive on the left in Indonesia, but the rights o.k if you like a thrill. Our driver really scared the shit out of me on a number of occasions. He turned out to be a champion though. He drove the whole way with one fifteen minute break, and how the guys nerves aren't completely shot I'll never know, but I'll tell you something, my nerves are shot for life. I did get a bit used to his erratic style, maily because everyone here drives like that. The slow guys make way for the fast guys, no fuss or bother involved. They are still a crazy bunch of mothers though.

Yogykarta is a fine city. It’s all about the atmosphere! The people we met seemed to be really friendly- check “Dwee” in Dorlis blog. Even the hawkers selling us crap on the side of the road had some charm about them. (note to self - people trying to sell you stuff can get really tediuos-). There are many things to see and do in Yogykarta, the Buddist temple of Borobudur is world famous, as is the ballet peformance or Ramayana (hindu epic tale about the adventures of Rama). We managed to miss both these cultural delights, but did see the Prababan, a Hindu shrine complex dating back to 1000Ad. Magnificent it was, with mount Merapi in the background. (MT Merapi is the worlds most active volcano.)

After three days in Yogykarta it was time to move on, as your humble narrator had itchy feet for the surf. 4 hours further on the road from Yogya, brought us to Batu Kara’a surf break. The surf was dissapointing, but the journey to get there was pretty cool. O’jek and moped rides across a bamboo bridge, which looked like a relic from the 1960’s film archive of Southeast Asia.
(n.b an O’jek is a guy on bike busting his poor arse while you sit in the front feeling bad….).

Two days later we were back on the road. We purchased tickets to Bundung. Economy class tickets on the bus. This I would not recommend to anyone ever….. Unless you want a first hand experience of hell, just how hot/smoky it can be. The primary reason for our hellish experience on the bus, plus my tirade follows.


Indonesians love a cigarette, and smoke one every thirty seconds or so, and when fifteen guys on a bus smoke, then every poor bastard on the bus smokes!!! It gets so smokey sometimes that your natural tendency is to hit the deck of the bus and try to get under the smoke, much like a fireman in a burning inferno. But when you look at the floor of the bus you have a stark choice to make. Do I get down there amonst the empty coke cans, cigareete butts, chip packets, empty peanut shells, piss, and the smell of decaying foot?? The smoke is pretty bad, but in truth even if you wanted to “stop, drop, and roll” as the saying goes, you would probably fall through the bottom of the bus, because the metal is so decayed and held together by one rivet or perhaps just chewing gum. We made it off that bus, and breathing the air outside was divine. Until the guy next to me started smoking…..






































Wednesday, October 8, 2008

First acquaintances and indonesian traffic

After a couple of days Bali we got a little used to the place and find it comfier to move around and fit in. We even stopped jumping for our lives every single time a scooter speeds 20 centimeters past us, since we learnt how to ride them like a real indonesian. We even stopped taking 2-hour detours whenever we want to go somewhere.

Today we went to Ubud, Bali's geographical center, where we got to see rice paddies, people with rice paddy hats and lots of rural indonesia. I actually thought we sort of get to go over the countryside just a little, but it seems like there is hardly any patches of land, where there are no houses or hats with people sitting outside of it. When we got to the township of Ubud we were already so full of impressions, that we nearly couldn’t take anymore. Uh, and our bums were hurting! So we decided to take a little walk around and happened to end up at the monkey forest. It is a small rainforest in the middle of town with a couple of ancient temples and hundreds of maquaques. We thought we miss out on the banana feeding (thought they were full anyway*g*), but there was this 30cm beast that was highly interested in my bright green tub of insect repellent. That little bastard soon figured, that I didn’t plan to feed the stuff to him. He just climbed up my leg, nearly pulling down my skirt – ooops! – my side and up on my shoulders. Well, first I thought we’re friends and all is good, but when my little buddy started going nuts at me and nibbling on my shoulder (me of course crazy for rabies) I got a little scared and after another tiny little while I was honestly frightened. You know, all his monkey mates came to see what he’s up to and circled me in. Morgs – I think so anyway – wanted to help me get that creature off, but if he put down any of our stuff it would’ve been gone for sure. Lucky that Japanese fella (who certainly had a laugh, too) managed to distract the bitch’s attention with a colorful flyer. He showed him first and then threw away. Arigato!

In our losmen (you already learnt, what that is...) we got to know a lovely russian couple (22 and married - Jesus), Tania and Dima. They were on their late honeymoon and you can see them walking on this picture. Thank you so much for the umbrella!!!!
The flowers on little banana trays are a hindu tradition. You find them in front of every shop, restaurant, hotel or hut, because they keep out the evil spirits. Definitely works, we haven't had any bad vibes in place, which had that little thing. The police hut we got

pulled over into (does this work?) for stopping (didn't want to run a red light) where I wasn't supposed to, didn't have one. The policeman was definitely a bad spirit, he wanted to make us pay for all sorts of stuff. Breaking rules, not having the right license etc. Lucky indonesians are all into bargaining, so we managed to haggle down the bribing price from 100000 rupiah to 50000. Indonesia - full of bargains! :)

Got my first wave yesterday, too! But please don't associate me with surfing again!

Cheers,
Dorli





PS: Morgs loaded this photo from Uluwatu. I met these really awesome Vorarlbergers there. It was a feast for my ears and my heart! Thanks!

Hey everybody!

Things this end couldn't be better really. I love Bali. Indonesia is everything I dreamed of. Exotic, warm, beautiful friendly people, and oh so inexpensive. Did I mention the amazing waves? I've been surfing the last two days. I can't even start to explain this location. Paradise, utopia, heaven.... Maybe not heaven. After living in Australia, a bit of a monoculture, this place was a feast for the senses. As soon as I got out of the taxi it just hit me in the face. (Yes the taxi driver ripped us off, as did the baggage porters, as did the t-shirt vendor.....). The heat and smell of the place are one thing, but it's the hussle and bussle that really blew me away. Everywhere tourists and locals alike driving moped motorbikes on crazily narrow streets, not just a couple of dozen, we are talking hundreds here. All tooting their horns hussling each other for a superior spot, not giving a damn how close they get to you, let alone wether or not they splash the stagnant sesspool puddles all over your feet! The first person I saw out of the taxi was a little girl, about five. She put out her hand for money. Having already been ripped off three times within the space of an hour and not wanting to feel like a dumb fool, I looked her straight in the eye, took her hand, and said "very pleased to meet you mam". She tried to suppress her laughter but couldn't. I was very pleased with myself as this reinforced my confidence and self esteem..... but didn't stop her following us for a way. Dorli was hell jealous.... We found a place to stay soon enough, in a losmen, as they call them here. A basic room with two single beds, a fan, a hand held shower with cold water, (which is the only temp. you want really), plus a toilet. Really it is a very nice place. Bali is Hindu of course, so the buildings reflect that, with nicely constructed temple like roofs, a veranda and gardens in a centre courtyard area. Our acc. costs a packet. 60,000 Rp per night for the two of us. Lots of notes in the transaction, but 60,000 RP actually translates to about $9.00 bucks Aussie. I feel wealthy enough to tip now.......... Yep, thats right, even me, Scrouge Mc' D... Those moped bikes that made me so jumpy on arrival have a few positive advantages. 1. you can hire em for 5 bucks a day. 2. they use practically no fuel. 3. (and this is the main thing to consider) You can fit two people plus a surfboard on them and drive all over the Island! :) :) :) Dorli is our driver (she has international drivers licence- which we had to bribe the police here to get- another story altogether). Anyway, Dorli has the right licence, so we are covered by insurance should some punk tourist/local- drive over us. (locals are margianlly better drivers than tourists, only marginally though). We have been out exploring the island for the last two days. Dorli is very competent and doesn't suffer with moped rage at all..... (laugh now)............She is actually pretty good and I am just thankful she handles stress a bit better than me really. It does piss me off that she gets to drive all the time.These bikes are really fun to ride. (I had a go on it down a desserted track just today. So much fun.) The food is rice or noodle based. Nasi goreng, or mi goreng. (nasi goreng translates into 'fried rice with veg' and mi goering to 'fried noodles with veg'.) - pretty simple really but I always seem to forget which one is which, but that doesnt' matter because I like em both, ordering is such an adventure. Not to rant on about the prices but - soooooo cheap. $2-3 AUS. You eat out over here. You just do!

I'm going to write you some other impressions soon. It's hard to take it all in sometimes.

More soon

Morgan
PS: Uluwatu!

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Map

This is just a little overview. We only have a very rough route. We're flying from Perth to Singapore, to Denpasar. We'll spend one month in Indonesia and move to Jakarta somehow from where we'll fly into Kuala Lumpur. Our way is supposed to lead us to Hanoi (via Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, maybe Laos), from where we'll fly to Taipei.